I cut the bodice of the dress on the stand, a basic block shape of an 1860's bodice from neck to waist from a Jane Arnold book, it has two darts from bust line to waist and a curved SB(side back) seam then drawing on the design lines I figured out measurements by eye to suit the character basically from research and my design. I also considered the sort-of "simplest" option for the seams and decoration for time and alteration purposes (needs-be).
I feel that the under structure + decoration is most important for this particular performance costume to emphasize period and character. So, I plan to adapt a petticoat or just build a petticoat to suit my specifications, even though this wasn't discussed in a previous tutorial, it is April 4th now and the petticoat is ready for a fitting. Follow up for this can be seen in 02 - Construction blog "Project Petticoat". This is the design -
Using the Jane Arnold construction book, Iam using the "1866-7 Day Dress" patterns as a template for my design and construction ideas. The actual day dress has the perfect Skirt and waist level that is fitting with the attraction style, the character and importantly the period look that I want. I mimicked the skirt patterns from the 'day dress' blocks in length and hem width, but my skirt has a total of seven blocks to it rather than nine. The SF(side front) block has a 44" hem width where as the SB(side back) BK(back) have a hem width of 22" and FNT(front) is 32" but is CTF(cut to fold).
Using the construction methods learnt at the AUCB (arts university college at Bournemouth) thus far in producing garments for the stage, I will back my top fabrics in 'Light Weight' calico, this will give the costume body and top fabric protection, also I feel it will keep stitching smooth and secure. I pinned the toile of the skirt to a mannequin to ensure that the gatheres are equal and precise. There will be a 'Veil' over skirt on top of the actual skirt that will be double gathered, in a way, but this will be produced after the first fitting. The images featured are on the mannequin without a petticoat or top fabric, which has been ordered (03/04/2010) I have opted for a 'Stretch Duchess Satin' and 'Satin Chiffon' both in cream and a lemon 'Crushed Satin Jacquard' for the top fabric of the skirt where the veil is ivory to take away the sheerness of the lemon.
Check out Sleeve construction blog and fabrics blog =]
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